Surfing is a strange and magical thing, being out in the deadly ocean and being pounded mercilessly for fun. I would never have thought that I would be a surfer when I was in Christchurch. I hated the ocean. It was cold and big and the fear of drowning was a constant worry. If you had told me I would not only end up surfing, but surfing everyday like an addiction, I would have given you the number for the mental institute.
I believe that people are drawn to the water in times of worry of distress. It may sound corny but it’s true. After we moved out of Sumner, I was nervous. I had a group of friends there and was a bit sad to leave. The stress was like a little monkey on my back and when we reached Ahipara, that monkey turned into a 500 pound gorilla. The first time we rolled into Kaitiai I was horrified. It was a dump, to put it nicely. School was even rougher, fights everyday, kids drinking and smoking weed. I felt utterly lost. What I needed was a way to distract my self, to find peace and tranquility, and I sure as hell found one. I remember the first day we were here we went to the sea. I ran out feeling the warm sand in between my toes. I felt the sea against me. It was amazing. We had a soft top surfboard. My dad and I took it out. I paddled out feeling the water rush past my hands. Even though it was only the white wash that I caught, it was still enough. I stood up, and I was hooked.
When you are down, I think you are drawn to the ocean. A lot of the great surfers, like Kelly Slater and Miki Doras, were in distress and they went to take sanctuary in the water. Same with me now. Even though I am feeling better, I am still surfing.
Here is a great surfing quote from famed Hawaiian surfer Gary Lopez, that sums up surfing in one sentence “Once the surfing bug bites you, you aint never leaving.” It is so true. So thank you ocean for giving me the strength to overcome difficult times, and when I get back to Maine, I will still surf through the freezing winter because it’s an addiction. I have been bitten by the surfing bug.
